Super 8 / Normal 8 Telecine
This is my DIY telecine project for 8mm film (Both Standard 8 and Super 8). It's not a completely detailed step-by-step as you'll likely have a different projector but you're welcome to use my code or ideas for your project!It took about 6 months to complete due to waiting on postals from China and sometimes things had to be redesigned when something didn't work out!
See it in action:
Results of a capture, make sure you're watching it in HD!
Parts list
Many parts are interchangeable like the projector. The theory should apply to any projector. I picked up a dual type so I could capture both Super 8 and Standard 8 without having to create two devices!
This is split into 2 lists. One for the projector and the other the camera rig as it can be reused for other projects (such as the 9.5mm telecine I have done as well! Blog coming soon on that.)
Tools
- Workbench
- Power drill or better yet, a drillpress (which I wish I had!)
- Hacksaw
- Circular saw (to cut MDF bases, can use hand saw if can cut straight)
- All screwdriver sizes both flatheads and philips!
- Tweezers (for those fiddly operations)
- Scalpal or sharp knife
- Dremel
- Soldering iron
- PC (to program Arduino)
- Multimeter
Projector rig
NOTE: This is only a rough guide to parts required.
- Silma S101 Dual 8 Projector
- Nema 17 Stepper motor
- Nema 17 bracket
- Nema 17 anti-vibration bracket
- Thin sheet of metal that can be cut and bent to shape
- Brass stand offs
- 3mm plastic board to hold motor in place
- M4 bolts and washers
- Coupler 5mm to 6mm for original shaft from old motor
- Heatshrink (for motors shaft for better grip to belt)
- Easy Driver board for motor (mounted on 3mm mdf)
- LED 12V MR16 Dimmable COB Lamp
- Frosted sheet to diffuse lamp (double folded)
- Dimmer for LED lamp (not absolutely necessary)
- 12V 1A DC adapter for Arduino
- USB trigger for Samsung NX1000 to the Arduino
- Hall sensor (and a metal strip to hold into place)
- Small neodymium magnet (ie: from a HDD)
- 2x micro switches (forward and rewind switches)
- Arduino Uno R3 (mounted on 3mm mdf)
- Easy Driver module for stepper motor control
- 3mm nylon screws and nuts for mounting Arduino and Easy Driver module to 3mm MDF
- Breadboard
- Velcro sticky backed strips
- MDF base measured:
- 492mm x 210mm
Camera rig
- Samsung NX1000
- 128GB Class 10 SD Card
- Cheap or dead BP1030 battery (to gut and replace with adapter plug)
- 2.1mm 5mm female plug
- 9V 1A DC adapter with 2.1mm 5mm plug for camera
- Some wire
- 50mm Panticon Lens (49mm filter size)
- NX › M42 Adapter (modified to push pin in camera to allow Manual Focus Assist)
- M42 Russian Helios Macro Bellows macro (Modified with tripod mount hole drilled into base of it for stability)
- M42 › 55mm for bellows to reverse lens
- Reverse ring 49mm to 55mm
- 2x macro rails so can move left/right and back/forwards (remove rubber bases, cut grooves into knobs to adjust with screwdriver)
- Perspex (10mm x 150mm x 150mm) for camera base
- 4x M8 bolt 80mm length
- 8x wingnuts
- 16x M8 washers
- 1/4-20 Tap (to create tripod hole in bellows base)
- 13/64" Drillbit
- 1/4-20 Nuts
Base
Cut the MDF to the size you want as the base. Make it fit the width of the projector and give room for the camera mount. Drill 8mm holes. Use a spade bit on the underside to partially cut in to allow bolt heads to sit in flush and add washers and nuts.
Add rubber feet to the base to minimise vibrations.
Camera mount
Cut the acrylic. Careful not to split it!
Drill 9mm holes (for some wiggle room). Ensure they match the hole positions to the base.
Drill hole in centre for macro tripod mounts. Remove the rubber bases of the macro mounts to minimise wobble.
I had to add a tripod hole to the base of the bellows for extra stability.
M42 adapter modification
I modified the NX1000 M42 adapter to have a nub inside which allows use of Manual Focus Assist (basically zooms image on screen for more precise focussing) by pressing OK on the camera. VERY handy for macro photography! This mod pushes down a small switch inside the lens mount of the camera.
See here for details:
Add the M42 thread adapters and reverse ring to Pentax lens. This should give good macro quality.
USB trigger
For the USB adaptor, follow the tutorial here for the USB Trigger Adaptor (just do the resistor and shutter switch wiring, ignore focus as we have to use manual focus anyway):
I usually set the camera to:
- ISO 100 (minimal noise).
- Shutter at 1/60 (adjust according to brightness).
- Manually set white balance to the LED light.
- JPEG at maximum quality.
- 5MP size is fine. Can go higher or use RAW 20MP if doing small reel as RAW images are large!
- A bug occurs on the NX1000 which doesnt allow more than 10,000 images when set to reset on filename, so I set it to order by date folder.
- Use a fast 128GB SD card.
- Use the bellows for fine focusing, not the macro tripod mount as it moves when tightened.
- With the bellows, try to keep it as retracted as possible to minimise wobbling. You can always use a higher resolution and crop it down to zoom in.
Camera power adaptor
As the device can take hours to capture you'll need a power adaptor!
Crack open a cheap battery thats for your camera. Careful not to pierce the battery as can cause fire! Take out the internal batteries and take it to a recycling place.
Keep the pcb and you MUST desolder all the components on it!
Simply wire up the positive and negative to a female power adaptor socket. Check polarity matches!
Put the battery in the camera and mark where the hole is to go. Drill a hole in the battery case for the wire and thread through. The battery case should simply snap together with no glue or tape needed but you can if you want. I tied a knot in the wire so it can't be pulled out.
Camera uses a 9V 1A DC power adaptor. May differ for yours.
Projector modifications
You should be able to use any projector, I happened to find the Silma S101 cheap on eBay. The basic principles are you'll need to remove the motor, some electrical wiring and to make room for the camera lens.
Remove the halogen bulb (as it's too hot) and replace with LED MR16 COB Dimmable Bulb as bright as you can find, don't forget to add the diffuser sheet in front of it. I used a 6W one as I couldn't fit 12W without having to cut into the case. Trim the connectors down and solder power wires to the Dimmer. The dimmer is powered from the 12V rail on the Arduino. If you need more power for the light, use a separate 12V 1A power adapter.
Remove the halogen bulb (as it's too hot) and replace with LED MR16 COB Dimmable Bulb as bright as you can find, don't forget to add the diffuser sheet in front of it. I used a 6W one as I couldn't fit 12W without having to cut into the case. Trim the connectors down and solder power wires to the Dimmer. The dimmer is powered from the 12V rail on the Arduino. If you need more power for the light, use a separate 12V 1A power adapter.
Remove the motor, switches for the knob and any un-needed electronics.
Remove a chunk of the front lens holder to allow the lens of the camera to poke in.
Front part cut out to allow lens to get closer to film gate.
AC motor and unnecessary wiring removed.
Start/Stop/Rewind switches (specific to this projector)
Remove switch mechanism and replace with micro switches for start and rewind.
Seeing where the switches will go.
Micro switch module in place. Can now set to Start / Stop / Rewind the projector.
Projector base
Build up the projector on the base so there's enough clearance for the camera. Image shows the base unit for the projector as well as the dimmer for the led light.
Film guide
Cut out the path of the film so it doesn't slip out. Use electrical tape so it can be easily removed or re-positioned for easy threading of film:
Hall sensor
Add a small magnet to one of the blades of the projector and add a hall sensor close to it. This will tell the Arduino when to pause the projector to take a picture. Make sure the shutter blades don't block the light while paused! You can adjust the timings on the Arduino. The magnet can be any small neodymium magnet, I happen to use the one from inside a broken hard drive I had.
NOTE: Let the magnet go past the hall sensor a little way when the shutter is turning so the Arduino can be given time to pause! Also, ensure the film claw is at the end of its pull as it tends to stay still at the end briefly which is the best time to take the image.
Film gate
You'll need to enlarge the films gate so take it out and file it so its a bit larger than the size of the films full width and frame height. This is so we can capture everything in the frame.
Motor
Fit the stepper motor and align the belt holder to the axle of the projector. Mounted using m3 standoffs and washers. A strip of 3mm plastic was used to provide support for the motors bracket. I added heatshrink for better grip of the belt wheel. I used a 5mm to 6mm coupler to attach a 6mm metal pole for the belt wheel.
Arduino and electronics
I mounted my Arduino and Easy-Driver to small mdfs boards and stuck down with velcro for easy removal. Also added a heatsink to the Easy-Drivers chip as gets pretty hot. I had to up the voltage on the Easy Driver slightly to increase motors torque as was slipping.
Mounted Arduino and Easy-Driver to MDF bases for easy positioning.
Wire it all up. Use my diagram to give you an idea. My camera didn't need a powered input for triggering which is why I'm using an opto-coupler to trigger it. I added a pause button with long wires to avoid shaking the projector, so I could pause it while capturing to check focus etc. I didn't include the dimmer as wasn't really necessary for the diagram. Hope it's clear enough!
Here's the code for the Arduino. I'm not a programmer so I'm sure it could do with a rewrite. But it worked for me. If anyone knows Arduino code don't hesitate to edit it and send me a copy!
Result
A bit "Heath Robinson-y" looking but it works!
I go through a set routine when capturing.
- Clean film with microfiber and isoprophyl alcohol using a film rewinding bench.
- Put the film on the spools and weave film through projector.
- Manually forward the to beginning of first frame.
- Set the pause button to on first then switch projector to start.
- Turn on light, adjust brightness if neccessary.
- Get camera in position and focus.
- When ready, connect the cameras USB trigger cable to the Arduino.
- Set pause switch off and it'll start capturing!
It can take 2 hours to do a 50ft reel so be patient! Periodically check its in focus and camera hasn't shifted position due to vibration.
I tend to leave the cameras trigger unplugged until its in focus and ready to go.
Obviously it's never that simple the first time so you'll need to tweak your settings in the Arduino to match the rotation of the shutter blades and magnet, and any other mechanical issues you may have.
Final output
- Import the images into Premiere or similar. I set the project to 1440 x 1080 as film is roughly 4:3 in nature.
- I set the frame-rate to 15 as its the closest option I have in the encoder options. 8mm is often shot at 18 or 24 but I use 15 when going to put onto websites.
- If going to export for bluray, you will need to do some frame conversion. If it was shot at 24 then setting it to 25 (PAL) or 23.976 (NTSC) is fine, can set it as 24 too as its in the blu-ray spec too.
- If it was originally shot at 18, you'll need to use frame blending or similar. It won't look as nice. You can set to 25 or 23.976 but it will look sped up. If I had to, I would use 12fps and export at 24fps so it just double the frames. It will look slowed down but at least it doesn't look comically fast!
- Scale the film in Premiere or similar to hide the sprockets and film edges. Add subtle sharpening and brightness tweaks if necessary. Stabilisation could be used too. I find it takes far too long to do though.
- Add some relevant music or if its a sound movie, rip the audio from a separate sound projector and add to the video file (may have to pitch adjust it though!).
- Export as a high quality mp4 for YouTube or Vimeo.
For more info about blu-rays framerates etc.
Total cost of the project probably comes to about £80 or so. Pretty pleased with the final result :)
In action on YouTube (note this one doesn't have a pause switch yet):
And the result of one of the reels:
NOTE: YouTube's compression is pretty aggressive so you lose the nice film grain and gain annoying digital compression artefacts!
Good luck!
Issues:
- Vibrations get picked up very easily. Needs a better base unit. Even just lorries driving by outside the house picks up the vibrations!
- Goes out of focus sometimes due to vibrations.
- Need to tweak motor speeds to be faster. Its currently 1fps. I think it can go faster. Again, have to watch for vibration as the faster it goes, the more wobble happens.
- A reed switch might be better as the Hall Sensor has varying degrees of detection and might cause differences in pause timings.
Wishlist
- Need to stabilise the projector better. Try to remove any instance of vibrations.
- Need to add detection if film has jammed or is slipping in the gate.
- Need to add detection to stop when reached end of film.
- Power the whole thing with single mains plug to projector using AC-DC converter.
- Use a machine camera for faster photos.
If anyone has any suggestions or comments, either leave here or on the YouTube video.
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